San Miguel de Aralar

San Miguel in Excelsis, es un Santuario con más de mil años de historia, levantado en la sierra de Aralar, junto a la cima del monte Artxueta, desde el que se puede disfrutar de una impresionante panorámica. En su interior le espera un retablo románico, obra cumbre de la esmaltería europea. El lugar le hablará de la leyenda del dragón y Teodosio de Goñi, del pasado carolingio, de los remotos tiempos de dólmenes que hoy surgen diseminados entre campas y preciosos bosques de hayas.

San Miguel in Excelsis es un austero templo de tres naves, divididas en cuatro tramos, que se levanta en la sierra de Aralar. Está emplazado en un lugar estratégico, en la cima del monte Artxueta, al que se accede por carretera desde Lekunberri, y desde el que se disfruta de una panorámica espectacular que abarca el corredor de Arakil o Barranca, San Donato y las sierras de Urbasa y Andía. Existe también una pista que parte de Uharte-Arakil, al sur de la sierra.

El actual templo fue construido en la primera mitad del siglo XII como ampliación de un edificio románico de principios del siglo XI. El edificio es austero, sobrio, con escasa decoración. La capilla se construyó entre 1170 y 1180, de donde datan algunos retoques ornamentales de las puertas y del ábside de la Epístola.

El Santuario es conocido en medio mundo por el Retablo de Aralar, una obra de arte de 2 metros de longitud por 1,14 de altura que preside el presbiterio del templo. Esta obra maestra del arte románico es un frontal de esmaltes y cristal de roca de principios del siglo XII. El Retablo fue robado por el famoso ladrón de obras de arte Eric «El Belga» en 1979. Entre los años 1981 y 1985 se recuperaron 16 de los 18 medallones robados y 191 piedras preciosas de las 286 sustraídas, y tras su restauración, volvió al Santuario en 1991.

También en el interior del Santuario se puede contemplar la imagen de San Miguel, un relicario del siglo XVIII, de plata sobredorada, que representa al arcángel, con las alas desplegadas y los brazos en alto sosteniendo la cruz sobre su cabeza, donde se guarda una antigua talla de madera, la reliquia que, según la tradición, fue dejada por el propio ángel en este lugar. La imagen recorre decenas de localidades navarras todas las primaveras y es recibida por los vecinos y autoridades locales.

San Miguel es uno de los centros de espiritualidad más conocidos de Navarra y lugar de leyendas como la de Teodosio de Goñi. Se cuenta que en el valle navarro de Goñi vivía en el siglo VIII don Teodosio, señor de la comarca. A su vuelta de la guerra con los árabes, se encontró en el camino con un diablo disfrazado de ermitaño, quien le contó que su mujer le había estado engañando con un criado. Al llegar a casa, Teodosio atravesó con su espada a la pareja que yacía en su cama, sin percatarse de que eran sus padres. Como penitencia, el papa le condenó a caminar por los montes cargando una cruz y atado con unas cadenas hasta que éstas se rompieran. Vagando por la Sierra de Aralar, un día se le apareció un dragón y Teodosio invocó a San Miguel, que mató a la bestia y lo liberó de sus cadenas. Allí mismo, Teodosio erigió el santuario en el que se guardan las cadenas y se venera la reliquia de San Miguel.

Toda la sierra de Aralar es un paraíso para los amantes del paseo y del senderismo: a un lado de la sierra se encuentran la Vía Verde del Plazaola, el paseo que lleva al nacedero del Larraun o la visita a las cuevas de Astitz, y al otro, la Barranca, con las rutas de los dólmenes y localidades como Uharte Arakil, famosa por su concurso de perros de pastor y desde la que también se puede acceder al santuario por una pista. En invierno, si nieva en abundancia, se puede practicar el esquí de fondo

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